Wednesday, July 21, 2010

Natural hair care during hot summer months

Summer is a harsh time for hair, especially African American hair. In some climates, the humidity in the air causes hair to become frizzy and unmanageable. In other climates, the air is so dry it leads to breakage. Proper hair care techniques can help you avoid some of the pitfalls associated with summertime locks.
Shampooing
African American hair is naturally very curly. The tight corkscrew curls make it difficult for natural oils from the scalp to travel down the entire length of the hair, causing African American hair to become overly dry. Dry hair is hard to manage and unhealthy. Dry hair can be frizzy and unruly, and it is more prone to breaking apart from the shaft.

During the warm summer months, avoid shampooing hair more than once or twice a week. Shampooing strips hair of its natural oils, causing it to dry out. In the summer, when the air is already dry, shampooing is even more detrimental to African American hair. In addition to limiting the number of times a week you shampoo your hair, use a moisturizing shampoo that contains amino acids, panthenol and keratin every time you wash. A moisturizing shampoo will help your hair retain some moisture necessary to keep it looking healthy and shiny.
Conditioning
African American hair needs a lot of conditioning, particularly in the summer. Proper conditioning can help prevent breakage and frizz. A good conditioner will coat and protect the hair shaft from humidity.

Use a conditioner that contains shea or cocoa butter on your locks daily. You can use a leave-in conditioner or a regular conditioner that must be rinsed out. Wet hair slightly so that it is damp and apply the conditioner from roots to tips. If you're using a conditioner that must be rinsed out, leave it in your hair for about three minutes before washing it out.

Once a month, use a hot oil treatment or deep conditioner. These treatments are designed to fully immerse hair in moisture to fight frizz and breakage. These treatments are especially necessary if you continue to undergo chemical processing such as relaxing or dyeing during the summer months.

Thursday, July 15, 2010

Newbies start here

Here is the information need to start you hair care regimen :

Basic Regimen
1. Shampoo (1 moisturizing, 1 clarifying)
2. Conditioner (1 moisture, 1 protein)
3. leave-in (1moisture 1 protein)
4. water based moisturizer
5. oil (any oil to seal in water based moisturizer)
6. Hair tools (wide tooth comb, satin scarf, satin pillowcase (optional),hair dryer,rollers and pins)
This is a very basic regimen to get you started. Later you can add a tweak your regimen to keep what is working for your hair and get rid of those things that are not working for your hair.

Acronyms
EL - Ear Length
NL - Neck Length
SL - Shoulder Length
APL - Arm Pit Length
BSL - BraStrap Length
WSL - Waist Length
NG - New Growth
BC - Big Chop
TU - Touch Up
DC - Deep Conditioner
NTM - Neutorgena Triple Moisture
CW - Conditioner Wash
co-wash -washing hair with conditioner instead shampoo
pre-poo - applying oil on hair to condition before washing, 20 minutes to overnight
CWC - Conditioner, Wash, Conditioner
ACV - Apple Cider Vinegar
CON - Creme Of Nature
WRTC - White Rain Tropical Coconut Conditioner
BSS - Beauty Supply Store
PJ - Product Junkie
Slip - when the comb easily glides through hair
IMO - In My Opinion
LMAO - Laughing My Ass Off
HHG - Happy Hair Growing
BHM - Black Hair Media
LHCF - Long Hair Care Forum
EVOO - Extra Virgin Olive Oil
EVCO - Extra Virgin Coconut Oil
JBCO - Jamaican Black Castor Oil
DIY - Do It Yourself
HTH - Hope This Helps
ETA - Edited To Add
TTA - Thanks In Advance
ITA - I Totally Agree
IA - I Agree
SMH - Shakes My Head
SO - Significant Other
DH - Dear Husband
DD - Dear Daugther
BRB - Be Right Back
BTW - By The Way
HE - Herbal Essences
MMF - Mizani Moisturefuse
MT - Mega Tek
MN - Miconazole Nitrate
EO - Essential Oil
SAA - Silk Amino Acid
S & D - Search and Destroy (trimming off split ends)
Dusting - trimming the very ends of hair, trimmed off ends look like dust
FFOTD - Fab Foto Of The Day
LOTD - Look Of The Day
ALS - Ammonium Laurl Sulfate/Ammonium Laureth Sulfate
Cones - Silicones
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Regimen Building for Newbies

The most important key to building a solid regimen is finding your own hair tolerance. Everyone's hair is unique. What works for someone may not work for you. Hair can be moisturized, supple one day and dry and brittle the next. It's important that you build your regimen around these factors and address these circumstances within your regimen.

Tip: The more you do to your hair chemically the more moisture and protein the hair will need.

YOU WILL NEED:

1 Moisturizing Shampoo. This should be used 1-2x/week depending on your schedule. Choose a shampoo that is Sodium/Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate free. These ingredients tend to strip the hair making it feel squeaky clean. These shampoo's listed below, leave the hair detangled and soft. Here are some examples:

Creme of Nature (red and green label) Shampoo, Kenra Moisturizing Shampoo, Elucence Moisture Benefits, Neutrogena Triple Moisture Cream Lather Shampoo, Elasta QP Creme Conditioning Shampoo

1 Clarifying Shampoo. A clarifying shampoo should be used 1-2x/month if you are heavy handed with your products/oils etc. By using this shampoo you will remove dirt, build up. It's a great way of starting your hair off fresh for the month. Your hair should feel squeaky clean. Here are some examples:

Pantene Pro-V Purity Shampoo, Suave Shampoos, Nexxus aloe rid shampoo, Avalon Organics Lemon and shea butter, Ion clarifying shampoo

1 Moisturizing Conditioner & 1 Protein Conditioner. You should follow up with one of these conditioners after every wash. Use either one depending on what your hair needs at the time. I would recommend deep conditioning the hair for 30-45mins preferably with heat (hooded dryer). Protein conditioners are used for rebuilding the hair and giving it strength. Protein conditioners should be followed by a moisturizing deep conditioner to restore moisture and elasticity to the hair. Here are some examples of moisturizing conditioners:

Elucence Moisture Balancing Conditioner, Silk Elements Moisturizing Treatment, KeraCare Humecto, Mizani Moisturefuse, Elasta QP DPR-11, Creme of Nature Nourishing Conditioner, Kenra Moisturizing Conditioner

Here are some examples of Protein Conditioners:

ORS Hair Mayo, Aphogee 2 min reconstructor, Nexxus Keraphix, Affirm 5 n 1, Aphogee 2 Step, Nexxus Emergencee, Motions CPR, Elasta QP Anti Breakage Serum

1 Leave-in conditioner. This should be used after washes or as a daily moisturizer. Here are some examples:

Neutrogena Triple Moisture Silk Touch Leave-in, Elasta QP H-Two Leave-in, Infusium 23, Cantu Shea Butter, Salerm 21, Lacio Lacio

Water based moisturizer (1 Moisturizing 1 Protein). Use daily to hydrate the hair. Avoid moisturizers that contain mineral oil, lanolin, petrolatum. I recommend using your moisturizer 1-2x/day (morning & night). Here are some examples:

Moisturizing: S-Curl, Hollywood Beauty Olive & Carrot Oil, ORS Olive Oil, ORS Carrot Oil, Wave Nouveau Finishing Lotion Protein: Cantu Shea butter, Elasta QP Mango Butter, Profective Healthy ends


are used for sealing in water based moisturizers. Add a light coating of oil to the ends of the hair and work your way up. Don't over do it now!!

Here are some examples: Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Extra Virgin Coconut Oil, Jojoba Oil, Safflower Oil, Castor Oil

That's it!! Remember to take a step back and re-evaluate your hair and your methods. LISTEN to your hair. It will tell you when something is not working well for you (i.e. Dryness, breakage etc.) Give your hair time to get adjusted. It's all about trial and error until you realize what your hair likes, then you'll see improvement.

Original Article by SistaSlick

Starting a new hair journey? Start here

1. A fresh cut will be nice (or a trim)
I know for me, I trimmed my hair (cut rather) and started fresh. I did it because my hair was severly damaged. No sense in keeping damaged ends so cut those bad boys off!!


2. Keep track by taking lots of pictures

Taking pictures is always a way to motivate yourself. You get to see your progress and how far you've come since you begin your hair journey. You can also jot down your feelings as far as what you wish to accomplish.

3. Keep your ends clean

A nice trim every other month or so will prevent split ends. Trimming about 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch every other month will still allow you to retain length! And the rewards will be so nice!


4. Keep a clean scalp! Shampooing once or twice a week can never hurt!

Keep in mind that the type of shampoo that you choose to use should be a moisturizing shampoo which means sulfate free!! Dry hair needs moisture and Water is the best route!! Also, in order to promote growth, you have to have a clean and healthy scalp! I shampoo in the shower to prevent my hair from getting all tangled!! IT has not let me down as of yet!!!


5. Find you a high quality protien or a moisturizing conditoner weekly!
I DC at least 2 times a week. It has helped my hair a lot since it was damaged. A good protien conditioner will strenghten the hair by penetrating the cortex and adding amino acids to the weak strands. A good moisturizing conditioner will make you hair feel and look so soft! And does wonders on those broken hairs! I choose to use ORS hair mayo because it is both a moisturizing condish and a protien condish!!

6. LEAVE IN LEAVE IN LEAVE IN condish!

Very important! Get you a good leave in that will moisturize, detangle, and protect the hair. These conditioners are good to protect hair from weather damage!



7. Check ya products!

Be sure to always check to see what you are putting in your hair. This means to read the ingredients. Just because the product says it is good does not mean it is whats best for your hair!! Stay away from anything that contains mineral oil and petrolatum! This will only coat your hair and will not allow the moisture to penetrate! Also, please stay away from alcohol based products!



8. Always keep your hair moisturized!

I have always had this problem in the past. I never added enough moisture therefor, my hair constantly broke off. It can be best to moisturize the hair while it is wet and seal with a light oil! Be sure to take care of those ends as well!


9. DONT BRUSH YOUR WET HAIR!

I tend to do this from time to time so i need to practice what I preach!!

11. If you don't have to, stay away from heat!

Heat is not your friend! But if you have to, limit the amount of heat that you use and always use a heat protectant!!!


12. PROTECTIVE STYLES!!

Protective styles will not only protect your ends but will allow your hair to grow!! Twists, braids, buns, up dos. Anything that will refrain your ends from drying out is always a plus!! And try styles that do not require heat!



13.The difference between breakage and shedding.

You are supposed to shed any where between 50-100 strands daily. However be sure that it is actually shedding and not your hair breaking. If it is the usual shedding, you will see the white bulb on the end. If you dont, then you know your hair is breaking and lacking something....or you may be munipulating your hair a bit too much.


14. Protect your hair at night.

It is best to sleep in a silk or satin scarf or bonnet. Or you can invest in a silk pillow case. Cotton will obsorb the moisture from your hair.


15. Hair stylist do not know everything

Be mindful that because they work in a salon, does not mean they know how to maintain healthy hair. Watch what they do and choose wisely. One salon I went to ended up making my hair fall out because the lack of moisture and protien...

16. Last but not least!

Find a regimine that works for you. Start off small and add things as you begin to feel comfy with what youo are doing.



hair. You'll experience less breakage.

Jojoba and its benefits

Jojoba Oil in Hair Care

The use of Jojoba oil in hair care products is very common and those who suffer from dry, damaged hair or scaly, flaky scalp will benefit greatly from Jojoba’s ability to deeply penetrate the scalp and hair shaft. Jojoba oil dissolves sticky build-up on the scalp that can form from daily use of other hair products such as mousse, hair spray and hair gel. Many scalp problems occur as a result of such build-up, which can keep the hair follicles from functioning - ultimately killing the follicle - resulting in damaged hair.



With continued use, Jojoba oil ensures that hair stays healthy and clean, with a natural shine. In addition to Jojoba oil’s use as a scalp treatment, many hair conditioners, shampoos and herbal products contain Jojoba oil as its key ingredient. As with skin care, Jojoba oil can also be used on its own as a homemade treatment. As a leave-in conditioner, simply pour some Jojoba onto your hands and run them through your hair and comb through with a big-toothed comb until it is evenly distributed, or add one teaspoon of Jojoba to a cup of water in a spray bottle for a more convenient conditioning hair spray.



With its endless possibilities, you can enrich your life with Jojoba oil in just about any way imaginable.

Jojoba Oil in Skin Care

One of the most intriguing things about this oil is that it operates almost the same way human sebum (oil) does. Even more interesting, Jojoba oil has been shown to work well with acne prone skin. When applied to the skin, Jojoba oil balances sebum levels and also possesses anti-bacterial properties that prevent breakouts. Its ability to prevent moisture loss makes Jojoba oil ideal for use on dry skin, eczema and other problematic skin conditions. You can find Jojoba oil in wrinkle reduction treatments, moisturizers, acne control products and a number of other skin care items. For a homemade treat, you can purchase a bottle of pure Jojoba oil to make your own moisturizing cream or add a few drops to your favorite lotion. Jojoba oil is widely used in natural skin care products as well.



The next time you want to pamper yourself, reach for massage oil that contains Jojoba oil. The liquid wax makes for a lasting massage experience and protects the skin while providing relief

Selecting hair care

Buy moisturizing shampoos and conditioners for very dry hair. They restore moisture lost in blow-drying. Products containing aloe, seed oils or shea butter are especially rich. They are generally too heavy for oily or fine hair, though, but can be used just on the ends.

Buy clarifying shampoos or conditioners and buildup removers for clean hair that's dulled by too much build-up. they can help greasy hair if used periodically. It can be drying, however, so limited use is recommended. Special anti-dandruff shampoos are far more effective for flaking or itchy scalps.

To preserve color and natural oils to your hair, get color-fading shampoos and conditioners are gentle and moisturizing products that won't strip color or oils. It's easy to confuse color-protecting products with color-boosting or color-enhancing products. The latter two deposit color (and can stain highlights)and thus might be more than you bargained for, especially on dry or processed hair.

Look for dimethicone, a mineral emollient, which helps smooth and straighten a mop of thick hair before blow-drying. Regular conditioners often contain chemicals such as panthenol, which is a cosmetic coverup and can be found in most grocery store products. A light conditioner tames static and untangles normal to oily hair. Deep, rich conditioners resuscitates dry or damaged hair, but using too much can flatten thin, fine or oily hair, so use on midshaft and ends. If your hair is very fine, use very little to create shine and smoothness.

Create shine and body for straight hair and tame frizz with leave-in conditioners and reconstructive detanglers. It also defines curls in wavy hair.

Indulge yourself and your hair with a 20-minute treatment that rejuvenates and replenishes lost moisture, protein and shine. Hair masks, hot oil treatments and deep-conditioning protein packs restore softness and shine by penetrating into the hair shaft and filling in "pockets" of missing protein.

Apply volume-enhancing sprays and root-lifting products to damp roots, then again when dry to add volume to flat, limp, thin or very straight hair. You should not use it if you have bushy or thick curly hair.

Use gels and cremes sparingly and experiment with different effects. Hair gels and cremes add texture and shape to your hair. They're good for defining curls and holding styles. Cremes can be softer and lighter while gels are harder and stiffer.

Stop static, flyaway hair with styling cremes or pomades. It tames frizz when worked into dry curls with fingers, but can be too greasy and weigh down hair. It's best to start with a coffee bean-size amount and add more later if needed.

Calm curls and fix frizzies on dry, processed (colored or permed) or curly hair. Shine-enhancing gels or sprays and glossing cremes can be used to. It will also add shine to your hair. Look for silicone in the ingredients list to help hair reflect light and look shinier. Too much product weighs down oily hair, so use it very lightly or just on the ends. Sprays are the least oily; simply spray on your hands and smooth over your hair.

Touch-up frizzies or fly-aways with hair balms. They're a cosmetic cover-up and don't restore moisture, but give a healthier look to your hair.

Use at-home products sparingly and monitor how they affect your hair. Straighteners, spray relaxers and relaxing cremes can be used to straighten all hair types for people of all skin colors. It can transform curls into waves. Temporary products often contain moisturizing ingredients like glycerin, coconut oil and plant extracts. Permanent straighteners and relaxers are serious business and should always be applied by professionals.

Try spraying hair spray on a brush and then brush through your hair. Hair sprays tame fly-aways, add volume and seal coiffure. Use light varieties for a natural-looking hold. Firm-hold sprays can give a bulletproof, rigid look.

How to winterize your hair

With hundreds of hair care products on the market, making the right choice can be confusing. But caring for ethnic hair comes with its own challenges.


African-American hair is more prone to breakage and dryness — especially in the winter. It may look tougher, but it's actually more fragile than Caucasian hair.

Trying to find the right products, choosing the right styles and sticking to a maintenance schedule can prove a hassle.

And some of the "tried-and-true" advice for other ethnic groups is just plain wrong for African-American hair.

So let's demystify some of those common misconceptions:

Heavy, oily products are best for my hair because it's so dry in winter.
Back away from the heavy products. It makes sense that people want to grab the heavy body lotions and creams to soothe their dry skin during the winter, but it doesn't work for their hair.
Greasy products may actually [clog hair follicles and] cause other problems including scalp folliculitis and acne on the forehead and temples

I can wash my hair every day.
It depends on the hair type and texture. Very kinky to curly hair tends to be drier. If your hair is natural — no chemical process has been added to your hair — it's OK to rinse it everyday in the shower as long as a light conditioner is used. Natural hair loves water, but it's still important to keep it protected," she says. The extra curly hair cuticle — or outer layer — makes it more difficult for the oil secreted from the scalp to reach the ends of the hair, so don't forget to moisturize the hair. For relaxed hair — chemically processed for a straighter look — washing the hair once weekly is recommended. That's why it's important to lay off the heavy, petrolatum-based (petroleum jelly) products. Excessive washing can dry out relaxed hair, but you don't want to weigh it down with heavy product," he adds. Use light moisturizers and avoid excessive heat. And when you do wash it, make sure you use a deep conditioner.

Greasing the scalp will help with "dry-scalp" syndrome.
No, it won't. If your scalp is excessively dry, applying oil to it will not help — you may have a different problem. A flaky scalp is sometimes caused by a type of yeast overgrowth on the skin, resulting in a condition known as sebhorreic dermatitis.

It's cold outside, so I have to wear a hat almost everyday.
Hats can and will damage your hair. It is important to keep it moisturized with a light oil if you choose to wear one. If you can also find a hat with natural fibers, that is better than the typical wool hat.

If my hair is braided, I don't have to do anything to it.
We all know that this is definitely a myth! You have to keep your hair moisturized even with braids!! Stylists recommend a protein treatment, followed by a good conditioner to repair damaged hair before braiding it. If you do wear braids, be sure to wash your hair at least once a week. It's not OK to go longer than a week. Because you're not brushing or combing your hair on a daily basis, dirt and oil have more time to build up.

Braids are a good alternative when you want to give your hair a break from constant heat styling — curling irons and flat irons — but don't overdo it! Depending on the style, most experts recommend wearing your braids anywhere from 2 weeks to 3 months.

I work out, so I have to use a curling iron every day.
Take a time-out from frequent heat styling, which can severely damage your hair. Check out these styles to help your hair recover.
Induldge in weekly/biweekly deep conditioners
Remember water is your friend
Always protect your hair. Tie it up while sleeping and always protect your hair from the cold.Sleep with a satin/scarf pillow case.
NO MUNIPULATION! In other words, just leave it alone, no matter how hard it may be.
Either limit or cut out your heat usage! The less the better!
Do not use any products that may strip or dry your hair.
Don't comb dry hair. That's just looking for trouble if you ask me! Try combing while wet, or damp, while conditoner is in your hair, with a wide tooth comb. *Remember to work from ends of hair to the scalp.
For longer hair, do everything in sections.
Do not rub your hair with a towel when its wet...Hair is fragile in this state so try to squeeze it instead
Take care of your ends. This is the oldest and more fragile part of your hair. Oil them down at night.
Is your hair tangled towards the ends when you comb them?? That is a sign that it is time for a trim.
Holding on to split ends will only damage your hair in the end. Get trims as needed.
We all may have different textures on our heads...get use to the textures and learn how to deal with them
Experiment! The only way to know what is good for your hair is if you try different things!
Drink plenty of water. Heres a tip, if you have a 16oz cup, you can fill this up 4 times a day and pick the times that you want to drink them. EX. one cup when you wake up, one before lunch, one before dinner and last glass before bed. It'll not only do your hair some justice but your skin and body will benefit from this as well!
Last but not least, maintianing your natural hair shouldn't be a difficult task. Just accept your hair for the way it is and learn to do different styles,